Liberer de lespace sur disque dur mac

First try. Using another Mac and a quality Firewire cable, I formatted it using Target Disk mode, 2 partitions defaults, except I made the first one bigger than the second. Tried to boot. It booted, and I installed; nary a glitch. Running the Installer over Firewire would have been faster, but I didn't want to reboot this machine. Instead, after doing Step 5, I noticed I then had enough room and cable length to access the screws in Step 11 if I lifted the LCD up an inch or so, rotated it about degrees clockwise and moved it a couple inches toward the base, and put it down.

After removing them Step 11 , I propped up the LCD with a spare spudger and had enough room to do Steps 12, 13, and 14 without much difficulty. No risk of the damage Ersan and Michael caused performing Step 7! I wonder why. What's the deal, Geoff?

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I mean I'd understand if I suggested folks didn't need the suction cups, as that could cut into iFixit's income stream, but what's wrong with suggesting that a few steps aren't needed? I did not have to remove a single cable! After undoing the torx screws from the sides, I was able to rotate the LCD out of the way enough to reach all the screws holding in the ODD bracket.

One of them was a bit challenging to get to, but I never felt that I was risking the cables by leaving them connected. The SDD mounts into the hard drive enclosure, then the enclosure is screwed into the bracket. Seems to work fine. Sensor cables: Also, don't rotate too much, since then you will pull out LCD data cable, and it renders the whole exercise moot, or can damage the cable or connector.

You don't need suction cups.

The screen, held by magnets, can simply be pried off using a very thin blade such as a screw driver and fingers. That's a bad idea. Suction cups are common. Find a couple and do it the safe way. I use some cheap ones that came with iPhone repair kit. Hello, I just need to replace a slightly cracked screen on my iMac. Where is it best to place the suction cups? Thanks in advance. No need for suction cups, I just stuck my nails short like guys usually have between the top part of the screen and body, and it came off easily. I've never done it before, so it seems to be very easy.

Attempted to remove the optical drive without disconnecting any cables but found it a bit fiddly to orient the screen for good access. I bit the bullet and disconnected them and found the process less daunting than I imagined. Reconnecting them was similarly straightforward if you're careful.

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Still need to remove the sensor from the optical drive but you can leave that hanging and reattach it to the SSD later. I have an odd question -- I want to remove the polarizer from the LCD. With some monitors this is trivial, others not so much.

My question is whether it is bonded to the Liquid crystal, or whether it's loose, or cutting it with a razor blade would remove it. Obviously I'd like to know before I go to the trouble of dismantling the thing This can be confusing at times. Expect there to be minor differences between the layout described and what you find when you open up your iMac. There are also, surprisingly, differences between the HD enclosure description, and the article provided by ifixit.

A more detailed description of how to release them might have helped, but even here, there may be minor variations even within the model. I'm sure there's a trick to it, but I'd love to know what it is for future reference. I used needlenose pliers and the T10 to align the screw into the hole. Otherwise the screw keeps jumping to the magnet. A short piece of small gauge vinyl tubing that fits tightly over the head of the T driver leaving an 8th of an inch or so in which to insert the screw to engage the head will hold the screw long enough to keep it away from the magnet and get it going in the hole.

Ne le soulevez pas trop. When putting the display back I have resistance from the foam elements on the top end where the iSight is and have to press down really hard.

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Is that okay? Standing the imac upright on its stand really helps this step! Laying it falt makes getting under the panel a real hassle. The vertical sync cable was snug initially and now is loose. I checked and the cable is intact. Has anyone had experience with making it fit better? Reassembly of this part was the closest I came to disaster on this project. I tried inserting the connector a few times without success, and when I looked it it the leads, which are fragile, were all mangled.

I smoothed them out by hand as best I could and and reinserted, very carefully this time. The trick is that the tip of the connector should be pointed somewhat upwards when reconnecting. I was pretty sure that when I was done, I would reboot but have no display; but fortunately, everything worked. Hi, I still have a question. What is the "Job" of the vertical sync ribbon cable. They might. And if it were to oscillate in a rushing torrent of air, it might get munged?

It might. I used emory paper. This is essential to press the connector wires into the connector. I just leave it connected. I have replaced the hdd in this model about times - I have never had to disconnect any cables other than the sata and temp sensor cables on the hdd. I just prop the lcd up with an egg carton or something about 3 inches high that is soft and light and access the hdd that way. I found it easier to very slightly lift the front edge of the black connector with a small spudger, then gently pulling away towards the bottom of the iMac.

I feel pretty silly. I spent wayyyy too long trying to get these cables disconnected. Happy I found this guide; hopefully, I won't struggle with such simple things since you provide pretty good details! Dieser Stecker kann sehr fest sitzen, hier hilft ein guter Fingernagel um den Stecker abwechselnd rechts und links zu Hebeln. I don't understand how to reverse the thermal connector. There's only one way to insert it; unless they mean to reverse the grey and black wires? Confused, but hoping I don't have any fan issues.

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I had the same problem, i have the fan running at high speed, the connectors cannot be reversed. There is only one way to insert on either end.

Tuto Mac [FR] ~ Comment libérer de l'espace sur son mac

I still don't understand the instruction to reverse the connector. A photo would be helpful. Does this mean to take the connector and turn it upside down from how it was originally connected? What if the socket for the connector will only allow it to be inserted in one manner? I've changed out my hard drive and the fan is on high all the time, so something is wrong, though I thought I had followed the instructions carefully. Didn't reverse. It would have been helpful if this article had indicated the old and new drive.

To do steps 10 and 11 I had to do 12 and 13 first so I could get my hands on the connectors to pull them out. It's quite a tight squeeze to get your hands in otherwise as there is Amytal bar restricting your ability to pull them all the way out. I used a Newer Technology Adaptadrive bracket fit perfectly. Since the SSD doesn't have a temperature sensor, I used a suggestion on this forum to just short the sensor plug with a small piece of wire and tape the connector down out of the way against the iMac's case.

Works perfectly, and the fans run at minimum speed verified with http: I wouldn't recommend shorting the sensor for a mechanical hard drive, but for an SSD which runs cool anyway there shouldn't be any problem. I just set the fan control with Macs fan control! Will this be fine? Here is the link to the product on Amazon http: Can not fit the thermal connector to the WD drive. How does one fit it?? On reassembly, I found there was no place on the hard drive to plug the connector in. So i just left the thermal connector dangling.

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Following startup, however, I am not getting fan noise. Vous voulez contribuer? Make sure the hard drive is of the same producer and it has a temp sensor connector. It's the only way to ensure that the heat sensor connector will fit into the hard drive's socket. I found a fix for this: One thing Andrew left out here, which I discovered on my own, is that even if you have the temperature sensor connected to the correct pins, you ALSO have to make sure that it is 'oriented' properly. On the sensor connector the little head that plugs into the hard drive I saw a little white dot on one side, which it turns out, indicates that's the 'top'.

So on my iMac, you have to make sure when you connect the temp sensor connector with the white dot showing. For any interested people, it's about an hour - going slowly. Now that I've done it, I assume I could do it again in 15 minutes if I had to. Just have the right tools handy, the T 8 and T 10 bits in particular. Getting off the display screen is easy. The screws are harder than you'd think because of the magnets, but they're not that bad. I recommend having tweezers to help pull them and place them later on. Overall, the thing that worried me most was the fan issue. And, so far I had a seagate gb, and I replaced it with a seagate barracuda 3 tb hhd.

Everything fit right into it, just as it did into the original. No optical sensor needed. No new sensor needed, period. No software needed. Just put in the new hd, and it works. I'm very pleased, and very proud of myself. Good luck to anyone considering doing this upgrade. You can do it, really. It's a pretty straightforward procedure. Took less than an hour. So far, after about 30 minutes of use, it's working great, and I haven't had the fan problem, but we'll see what happens.

Kevin's advice about the tweezers for extracting and inserting the screws that attach the display to the case was right on although I used a small pliers instead.

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Before you begin the replacement procedure, I highly recommend putting the new drive into a hard drive dock, and restoring to it from a Time Machine backup. Try booting off the new drive once to make sure it works. Then, when you swap the new drive for the existing internal drive, it'll be ready to go with no further effort needed. No need to go and buy suction cups. I discovered that using some of the many iTunes cards that for packrat reasons I throw in my desk drawer can be used to carefully side in between the glass and the case.

Once You get one in leave it there and use another to advance across the top. With 4 cards in place I was able to get the glass far enough off that I could then remove it. Screen removal was easy with the suction cups. I ended up buying the software at http: I have only two significant remarks:.

To fit a 2. There's no connector for the apple temperature sensor on the SSD. You must either disable the apple fan control or buy an external sensor. This fools the apple fan control into believing the drive is forever cool. This is what I did. I did this, too, using Macs Fan Control. I would have liked to do this, but I couldn't find any reliable information on which sensor to buy.

Thomas, see my previous comment.. It works like a charm, no issues.. I called Seagate July 22 They claim that " Seagate never made this HD and it was modified by apple " They also insisted the Sensor connector was a " Jumper option block ". I also called many retail HD sellers and all gave me the same incorrect info.

So much for Tech Support. Just lean the LCD back about 5 inches. Unscrew the 2 HD screws , lean the HD up out enough to disconnect the 3 connectors. I do not like the Orange suction cups also. They are very stiff and also have a metal screw in the center off the cup which might put a mark on the plastic lens. I use GPS car windshield mounts. The lens is very easy to pull off.

The locater pins on the lens Bezel are poorly attached and may fall off. Super glue them back on or just forget them as they are really made to make factory assembly faster. Fan Control Software: I used this Free software for controlling the speed of my fan. It seems to work after 5 hours of testing. Link to site http: I also try this software, but I'm not happy with it! The fan is always hearable and runs always with min rpm. Before the HDD replacement I rarely heard a noise from the fan!

Remplacement d'un disque dur dans l'iMac Intel 21,5" EMC 2308

GREAT job with these instructions - would have had to rely on a sloppy shop to do it otherwise I had the same experience as eschienbrood- replaced a GB Seagate with a 1 TB Seagate; took about an hour, and would've gone faster if I hadn't dropped one of the screws for the monitor into the chassis. Replacing the 8 screws for the monitor was by far the hardest part of the operation. The heat sensor for the HD went in the same way as it was on the old drive, and there are no fan problems.

Be careful, use ESD protection when working inside your iMac. First I put a "ESD protection bubble plastic sheet" on the table, then on top aluminum foil for the display and the glass panel. I have heard contradicting things about whether OSX we boot up from an external drive or not but mine did no problem. The next thing to bare in mind is that when you boot up your machine, if you want to do a fresh install onto your new hard drive you will need to go to Disk Utility and click on your new drive in the left hand tree and select partition.

Select 1 partition and then select options which will allow you to select GUID, click ok and then click on apply and your hard drive will be formatted. Now when you try to install the OS you will be able to select your newly installed hard drive. This Guide works perfect for me. I also didn't use any additional HDD frame ore something else. Most frequent English dictionary requests: Please click on the reason for your vote: This is not a good example for the translation above. The wrong words are highlighted. It does not match my search. It should not be summed up with the orange entries The translation is wrong or of bad quality.

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